We kicked off this morning with the Col de la Cayolle. It just reopened last week, and it's still heavily covered in snow.
Marmots are starting to pop up all over the place; it’s funny—at this time of year, they aren't shy at all.
The scenery on this pass is truly magnificent, but as usual, we have plenty of ground to cover, so not many photos.
After a quick coffee among early-bird riders at the foot of the Cayolle, we hit the road again through the Var Valley. The river is already showing its full power just a stone's throw from its source.
We then climb back up via Valberg, the local ski resort for the folks from Nice.
Further along, the Col de la Couillole was waiting for us. It’s one of my favorite spots in the Southern Alps. The rock is deep red, and the vegetation is lush at this time of year.
By noon, we reached Roubion, a charming perched village where the pleasant surprise of a sunny terrace was waiting for us.
A simpler afternoon program was on the agenda... or so we thought at first! Starting from the Tinée Valley, we still had a few passes to cross to reach the Roya Valley, which would lead us down toward Ventimiglia on the Italian side. From there, 130 km of easy, pleasant highway to get to Genoa. All it takes is hopping from one mountain-piercing tunnel to a viaduct soaring over the next valley—admiring the sea view on the right and the valley on the left, often framed by a charming town crowned with greenhouses.
Well, yes, that was the plan, but nasty traffic jams came along to ruin the party. And even though you expect to lane-filter easily on a motorcycle, in Italy it turned into a complete nightmare because people just don't pull over to leave room for bikes. We had to lay on the horn for miles before finally deciding to ditch the highway and follow the coast along the SS1, which brought us into Genoa.
A quick drink and dinner in the renovated docks, admiring mind-blowing yachts belonging to Saudi billionaires and the like.
We weren't at the end of our surprises for the day, though. Arriving at the ferry check-in, the staff told me that our ticket had been canceled. Talk about a surprise!
In reality, I had only purchased a pre-sale option, but GNV never sent a reminder to finalize the booking.
In the end, we managed to secure a spot on board—and a return ticket too, which always comes in handy—though we lost the benefit of the low price locked in 6 months earlier.
We took comfort in watching the incredible ballet of tug tractors offloading nearly 3 km of truck trailers stowed inside the massive belly of the 268-meter ferry.
The 30 or so motorcycles on board—only 5 of them French—looked tiny inside this steel cathedral.
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